The story of the Native American fashion movement has been filled with challenges—stereotypes and expectations of what Native-made fashion should look like, competitive cheap knock-offs sold by major fast-fashion companies and industry constraints. The fashion industry, regardless of your background, is one of the hardest industries to break into. A designer or brand needs a great deal of funding and connections. Up until recently, Indigenous designers had neither. Now, with the steadfast work of wonderfully talented designers like Jamie Okuma, we are breaking down the barriers, pushing forward and getting a seat at the table.
Designer Jamie Okuma, a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Photo courtesy the artist.
And let me tell you about this table. Imagine your name alongside that of Tom Ford, Prabal Gurung, Vera Wang, Diane von Furstenberg, Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger and more. That is where award-winning designer Jamie Okuma now stands. Through hard work and dedication to the art of fashion, she has been elected to the prestigious Council of Fashion Designers of America. The CFDA is the most important entity promoting American fashion globally. They host awards to celebrate established artists, they provide scholarships and resources for aspiring designers, and they offer funding and opportunities for working designers—all to amplify creative excellence, business longevity and positive impact in American fashion.
Jamie Okuma (Luiseno/Shoshone Bannock) arrived on the art scene at a young age when she won Best of Show at the Santa Fe Indian Market in 2000 for a miniature soft-sculpture doll featuring historically accurate traditional regalia and beadwork. These detailed tributes to the past were immaculate, taking months to complete and garnering great demand from collectors. While she created miniature clothing and regalia, she always considered changing course and designing ready-to-wear fashion and couture garments and accessories. After 15 years of creating the small soft-sculptures, Okuma is now a self-proclaimed fashion artist, and she has shifted her focus over to making wearable art.
For some of her latest fashion designs, Okuma has been digitally printing her original beadwork designs (which are inspired by traditional Plateau beadwork) to fabric for her own designs that range from cool bomber jackets to elegant couture gowns. Here, she serves as a bridge from the well-known traditional adornment of the past, to the fashion world of the present.
Importantly, designers like Okuma provide a pathway for future generations. We are constantly inspired by our rich cultural heritages and excited by the opportunity to honor our ancestors while thinking about how we can accurately and appropriately share that heritage with the world. With Okuma’s appointment to the council, we are witnessing a historical moment—there is nothing more American than the Native American, and instead of continuing to ‘other’ Indigenous designers, American fashion organizations and events recognize, honor and celebrate the sheer talent of America’s first and original couturiers.
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