Jewelers to Watch

JJ Otero (Navajo (Diné))

Like many jewelers, JJ Otero lets the stones guide his design aesthetic. It sounds simple, but it can get complex very quickly, especially when most artists have hundreds of stones in their possession, each calling out for specific designs.

Natural Broken Arrow Variscite sterling silver ring

“When there’s a stone I like, that’s what I want to feature. A great stone in a quality setting, that’s what people want to see and that’s what I like showing them,” Otero says. “I also think my aesthetic is a lot more reserved. Sometimes I tell collectors that they’re paying for my restraint. Because a lot of times, I feel like I could go in directions that aren’t justified, so I pull back so the piece doesn’t look busy.”

Clean, elegant designs that favor stones. This is what his collectors are looking for, and it’s what Otero likes to deliver, although he admits he doesn’t hold back when it comes to stone sizes. The stones can be showstoppers, and their sizes make statements. And then underneath the stones are hidden treasures. “I’ve been working on the bands more these days. Some jewelers don’t give a lot of attention to the ring’s band, but that’s great real estate for design and attention,” he says. “I’ve been throwing down some marks on the bands. It’s been fun exploring that part of the design.”

Natural Cloud Mountain turquoise sterling silver ring

Natural Pacific coral 18k gold ring

Otero is a regular at many of the big markets, including the Heard Museum Guild Indian Fair & Market and Santa Fe Indian Market. He’s planning on having an active 2025.

See more of Otero’s work on Instagram (@jj.otero.art)